A Dorset Adventure: Golden Cap “There and Back Again”

Ideally located for exploring the Jurassic Coast and everything it has to offer, we stayed in our newest addition, Box Cottage, our one and only Charmouth stay, and took the opportunity to hike a wonderful circular route from the doorstep of Box Cottage to Golden Cap & back.

We set out down Higher Sea Lane towards Charmouth Beach, following the coastal path signs we soon hit the beach and after a quick pop in and explore of Charmouth Heritage Centre, we soon set out across the footbridge spanning the mouth of the River Char and therefore hit our first incline!

Up and up we went following the South West Coastal Path signs until we crested the top of StoneBarrow Hill, which offered both lovely views back along Charmouth Beach and over towards Lyme Regis in the distance, as well as towards our destination, Golden Cap, which looked noticeably far away at this point!

We endeavoured onwards towards our goal, basking in the lovely August sunshine. The coastal route, once you crest the first hill, offers a meandering track up and down various inclines, but throughout the hike the way was clearly marked by the coastal path signs. Although, when in doubt, the looming Golden Cap dominates the view so it was always easy to reoriented yourself on this hike.

The path itself offered a lovely mix of dirt trails, grassy fields and the occasional self-built wooden bridges or stone steps. Upon the next descent we encountered wooden crossing of both the Westhay & Ridge Water streams.

The next section involved ascending slowly upwards and across a couple of open fields, which, once again, highlighted the wonderful array of colours that the Jurassic Coast provides, from deep blue to almost opaque turquoise similar to tropical shores!

We stuck to the right-hand side of the Coastal Path in order to really appreciate the coastal views, once again following those trusty South West Coastal Path Signs. We had finally reached the final short (but steep!) climb up a small open field, before tackling the widely spaced steps flanked by overreaching ferns that tickle your shins as you ascend to the summit of Golden Cap.

Celebrations were in order as we walked out onto the flat summit of Golden Cap! We are used to seeing the Golden Cap as a dominating point along the Jurassic Coastline, it often glints with it’s iconic colour when it catches the sun and has always been a noticeable peak when we’ve been bustling around Lyme. But it is not until you take those final steps to the summit that you really realise quite how high and prominent it is! From the top it offers breath-taking views across to the East, overlooking Seatown with far-reaching views all the way to Chesil Beach and the Isle of Portland. We turned around and looked South to marvel at the path we had just explored, as well as to admire the views offered by both Charmouth and Lyme Regis.

We stayed and admired the view for a good while, as whichever way you looked it offered captivating landscapes. Another Hiker saw us taking in the views and mentioned that on a clear day you can sometimes even see all the way down to Start Point in South Devon! Definitely offering us a reason to bring binoculars when we next explore this hike.

Once we’d torn our eyes from the views, it was time to head back towards Charmouth, we had two options, follow the way we came back along the coastal path or take a slight de-tour to St Gabriel’s Chapel, which only required taking the right at the first South West Coastal Path that deviates into two after descending Golden Cap!

Following the path we almost stumbled upon the picturesque ruin of Stanton St Gabriel’s chapel, a site that once housed a Saxon settlement which was even recorded in the Domesday Book in 1066. It offered a peaceful diversion off the ‘main track’ on this route and is highly recommended if you like to discover hidden secrets of the coast, nestled right under the shadow of Golden Cap.

Once we’d explored the Chapel and the thatched National Trust cottage of Stanton St Gabriel’s we continued to follow the signposted path, through an old wooden gate, descending down an old lane before re-joining the South West Coastal Path and continuing our hike back to Charmouth.

This final stretch back to Charmouth was noticeably faster (potentially due to the downhill route?) and once we had ascended StoneBarrow Hill, Charmouth and therefore Box Cottage were finally back in sight!

Descending back down to Charmouth Beach, we followed the signs back up Higher Sea Lane and returned to Box Cottage. After such a fulfilling hike it was wonderful to walk back up the hedge and lavender lined garden path before entering Box Cottage. The wonderful blend of country & coastal that the cottage offers alongside a thoroughly refreshing shower reinvigorated us and we ventured to Lyme to reward ourselves for the grand adventure we had today!

After driving the short distance into Lyme Regis, we knew exactly where we needed to go to reward ourselves... A quick stroll to the Town Mill Quarter and we were there. Lyme Regis Brewery beckoned with it’s open doors and patrons already lining the tables outside, their glasses glistening in the evening sunshine, reminiscent of the colour of the all too familiar Cap we explored today. There was only one thing for it. We, of course, had to have a refreshing pint of the aptly named ‘Golden Cap’!

And thus, our wonderful adventure concluded, until next time!